Chapter Chapter 26 · BOOK II CHAPTER XVI

It was three days before we made a start again, and to me each day was

like a year. I chafed bitterly at the delay. Would those sacks of flour

never dry? Longingly I gazed down the big, blue Yukon and cursed the

current that was every moment carrying her farther from me. Why her

sudden departure? I had no doubt it was enforced. I dreaded danger. Then

in a while I grew calmer. I was foolish to worry. She was safe enough.

We would meet in Dawson.

At last we were under way. Once more we sped down that devious river,

now swirling under the shadow of a steep bank, now steering around a

sandspit. The scenery was hideous to me, bluffs of clay with pines

peeping over their rims, willow-fringed flats, swamps of niggerhead,

ugly drab hills in endless monotony.

How full of kinks and hooks was the river! How vicious with snags! How

treacherous with eddies! It was beginning to bulk in my thoughts almost

like an obsession. Then one day Lake Labarge burst on my delighted eyes.

The trail was nearing its end.

Once more with swelling sail we drove before the wind. Once more we were

in a fleet of Argonaut boats, and now, with the goal in sight, each man

redoubled his efforts. Perhaps the rich ground would all be gone ere we

reached the valley. Maddening thought after what we had endured! We must

get on.

There was not a man in all that fleet but imagined that fortune awaited

him with open arms. They talked exultantly. Their eyes shone with the

gold-lust. They strained at sweep and oar. To be beaten at the last! Oh,

it was inconceivable! A tigerish eagerness filled them; a panic of fear

and cupidity spurred them on.

Labarge was a dream lake, mirroring noble mountains in its depths (for

soon after we made it, a dead calm fell). But we had no eyes for its

beauty. The golden magnet was drawing us too strongly now. We cursed

that exquisite serenity that made us sweat at the oars; we cursed the

wind that never would arise; the currents that always were against us.

In that breathless tranquillity myriads of mosquitoes assailed us,

blinded us, covered our food as we ate, made our lives a perfect hell of

misery. Yet the trail was nearing its finish.

What a relief it was when a sudden storm came up! White-caps tossed

around us, and the wind drove us on a precipitous shore, so that we

nearly came to a sorry end. But it was over at last, and we swept on

into the Thirty-mile River.

A furious, hurling stream was this, that matched our mad, impatient

mood; but it was staked with hidden dangers. We gripped our weary oars.

Keenly alert we had to be, steering and watching for rocks that would

have ripped us from bow to stern. There was a famously terrible one, on

which scows smashed like egg-shells under a hammer, and we missed it by

a bare hand's-breadth. I felt sick to think of our bitterness had we

piled up on it. That was an evil, ugly river, full of capricious turns

and eddies, and the bluffs were high and steep.

Hootalinqua, Big Salmon, Little Salmon, these are names to me now. All I

can remember is long days of toil at the oar, fighting the growing

obsession of mosquitoes, ever pressing on to the golden valley. The

ceaseless strain was beginning to tell on us. We suffered from

rheumatism, we barked with cold. Oh, we were weary, weary, yet the trail

was nearing its end.

One sunlit Sabbath evening I remember well. We were drifting along and

we came on a lovely glade where a creek joined the river. It was a

green, velvety, sparkling place, and by the creek were two men

whipsawing lumber. We hailed them jauntily and asked them if they had

found prospects. Were they getting out lumber for sluice-boxes?

One of the men came forward. He was very tired, very quiet, very solemn.

"No," he said, "we are sawing out a coffin for our dead."

Then we saw a limp shape in their boat and we hurried on, awed and

abashed.

The river was mud colour now, swirling in great eddies or convulsed from

below with sudden upheavals. Drifting on that oily current one seemed to

be quite motionless, and only the gliding banks assured us of progress.

The country seemed terrible to me, sinister, guilty, God-forsaken. At

the horizon, jagged mountains stabbed viciously at the sky.

The river overwhelmed me. Sometimes it was a stream of blood, running

into the eye of the setting sun, beautiful, yet weird and menacing. It

broadened, deepened, and every day countless streams swelled its volume.

Islands waded in it greenly. Always we heard it _singing_, a seething,

hissing noise supposed to be the pebbles shuffling on the bottom.

The days were insufferably hot and mosquito-curst; the nights chilly,

damp and mosquito-haunted. I suffered agonies from neuralgia. Never

mind, it would soon be over. We were on our last lap. The trail was near

its end.

Yes, it was indeed the homestretch. Suddenly sweeping round a bend we

raised a shout of joy. There was that great livid scar on the mountain

face--the "Slide," and clustered below it like shells on the seashore,

an army of tents. It was the gold-born city.

Trembling with eagerness we pulled ashore. Our troubles were over. At

last we had gained our Eldorado, thank God, thank God!

A number of loafers were coming to meet us. They were strangely calm.

"How about the gold?" said the Prodigal; "lots of ground left to stake?"

One of them looked at us contemptuously. He chewed a moment ere he

spoke.

"You Cheechakers better git right home. There ain't a foot of ground to

stake. Everything in sight was staked last Fall. The rest is all mud.

There's nothing doin' an' there's ten men for every job! The whole

thing's a fake. You Cheechakers better git right home."

Yes, after all our travail, all our torment, we had better go right

home. Already many were preparing to do so. Yet what of that great

oncoming horde of which we were but the vanguard? What of the eager

army, the host of the Cheechakos? For hundreds of miles were lake and

river white with their grotesque boats. Beyond them again were thousands

and thousands of others struggling on through mosquito-curst morasses,

bent under their inexorable burdens. Reckless, indomitable,

hope-inspired, they climbed the passes and shot the rapids; they drowned

in the rivers, they rotted in the swamps. Nothing could stay them. The

golden magnet was drawing them on; the spell of the gold-lust was in

their hearts.

And this was the end. For this they had mortgaged homes and broken

hearts. For this they had faced danger and borne suffering: to be told

to return.

The land was choosing its own. All along it had weeded out the

weaklings. Now let the fainthearted go back. This land was only for the

Strong.

Yet it was sad, so much weariness, and at the end disenchantment and

failure.

Verily the ways of the gold-trail were cruel.

BOOK III

THE CAMP

For once you've panned the speckled sand and seen the bonny dust,

Its peerless brightness blinds you like a spell;

It's little else you care about; you go because you must,

And you feel that you could follow it to hell.

You'd follow it in hunger, and you'd follow it in cold;

You'd follow it in solitude and pain;

And when you're stiff and battened down let some one whisper "Gold,"

You're lief to rise and follow it again.

--"The Prospector."