บทที่ บทที่ 15 · THE CONTINUED DESCENT

. THE CONTINUED DESCENT

On the evening of the 5th of July, the atmosphere had been oppressive

since the morning and threatened approaching storms. Large bats of ruddy

color skimmed with their huge wings the current of the Amazon. Among

them could be distinguished the _“perros voladors,”_ somber brown above

and light-colored beneath, for which Minha, and particularly the young

mulatto, felt an instinctive aversion.

These were, in fact, the horrible vampires which suck the blood of the

cattle, and even attack man if he is imprudent enough to sleep out in

the fields.

“Oh, the dreadful creatures!” cried Lina, hiding her eyes; “they fill me

with horror!”

“And they are really formidable,” added Minha; “are they not, Manoel?”

“To be sure--very formidable,” answered he. “These vampires have a

particular instinct which leads them to bleed you in the places where

the blood most easily comes, and principally behind the ear. During

the operation they continue to move their wings, and cause an agreeable

freshness which renders the sleep of the sleeper more profound. They

tell of people, unconsciously submitted to this hemorrhage for many

hours, who have never awoke!”

“Talk no more of things like that, Manoel,” said Yaquita, “or neither

Minha nor Lina will dare sleep to-night.”

“Never fear!” replied Manoel; “if necessary we will watch over them as

they sleep.”

“Silence!” said Benito.

“What is the matter?” asked Manoel.

“Do you not hear a very curious noise on that side?” continued Benito,

pointing to the right bank.

“Certainly,” answered Yaquita.

“What causes the noise?” asked Minha. “One would think it was shingle

rolling on the beach of the islands.”

“Good! I know what it is,” answered Benito. “Tomorrow, at daybreak,

there will be a rare treat for those who like fresh turtle eggs and

little turtles!”

He was not deceived; the noise was produced by innumerable chelonians of

all sizes, who were attracted to the islands to lay their eggs.

It is in the sand of the beach that these amphibians choose the most

convenient places to deposit their eggs. The operation commences with

sunset and finishes with the dawn.

At this moment the chief turtle had left the bed of the river to

reconnoiter for a favorable spot; the others, collected in thousands,

were soon after occupied in digging with their hind paddles a trench six

hundred feet long, a dozen wide, and six deep. After laying their eggs

they cover them with a bed of sand, which they beat down with their

carapaces as if they were rammers.

This egg-laying operation is a grand affair for the riverine Indians

of the Amazon and its tributaries. They watch for the arrival of the

chelonians, and proceed to the extraction of the eggs to the sound

of the drum; and the harvest is divided into three parts--one to the

watchers, another to the Indians, a third to the state, represented by

the captains of the shore, who, in their capacity of police, have to

superintend the collection of the dues. To certain beaches which the

decrease of the waters has left uncovered, and which have the privilege

of attracting the greater number of turtles, there has been given the

name of “royal beaches.” When the harvest is gathered it is a holiday

for the Indians, who give themselves up to games, dancing, and drinking;

and it is also a holiday for the alligators of the river, who hold high

revelry on the remains of the amphibians.

Turtles, or turtle eggs, are an object of very considerable trade

throughout the Amazonian basin. It is these chelonians whom they

“turn”--that is to say, put on their backs--when they come from laying

their eggs, and whom they preserve alive, keeping them in palisaded

pools like fish-pools, or attaching them to a stake by a cord just long

enough to allow them to go and come on the land or under the water. In

this way they always have the meat of these animals fresh.

They proceed differently with the little turtles which are just hatched.

There is no need to pack them or tie them up. Their shell is still soft,

their flesh extremely tender, and after they have cooked them they eat

them just like oysters. In this form large quantities are consumed.

However, this is not the most general use to which the chelonian eggs

are put in the provinces of Amazones and Para. The manufacture of

_“manteigna de tartaruga,”_ or turtle butter, which will bear comparison

with the best products of Normandy or Brittany, does not take less every

year that from two hundred and fifty to three hundred millions of eggs.

But the turtles are innumerable all along the river, and they deposit

their eggs on the sands of the beach in incalculable quantities.

However, on account of the destruction caused not only by the natives,

but by the water-fowl from the side, the urubus in the air, and the

alligators in the river, their number has been so diminished that for

every little turtle a Brazilian pataque, or about a franc, has to be

paid.

On the morrow, at daybreak, Benito, Fragoso, and a few Indians took a

pirogue and landed on the beach of one of the large islands which they

had passed during the night. It was not necessary for the jangada to

halt. They knew they could catch her up.

On the shore they saw the little hillocks which indicated the places

where, that very night, each packet of eggs had been deposited in

the trench in groups of from one hundred and sixty to one hundred and

ninety. These there was no wish to get out. But an earlier laying had

taken place two months before, the eggs had hatched under the action

of the heat stored in the sand, and already several thousands of little

turtles were running about the beach.

The hunters were therefore in luck. The pirogue was filled with these

interesting amphibians, and they arrived just in time for breakfast. The

booty was divided between the passengers and crew of the jangada, and if

any lasted till the evening it did not last any longer.

In the morning of the 7th of July they were before San Jose de Matura,

a town situated near a small river filled up with long grass, and on the

borders of which a legend says that Indians with tails once existed.

In the morning of the 8th of July they caught sight of the village of

San Antonio, two or three little houses lost in the trees at the mouth

of the Iça, or Putumayo, which is about nine hundred meters wide.

The Putumayo is one of the most important affluents of the Amazon. Here

in the sixteenth century missions were founded by the Spaniards, which

were afterward destroyed by the Portuguese, and not a trace of them now

remains.

Representatives of different tribes of Indians are found in the

neighborhood, which are easily recognizable by the differences in their

tattoo marks.

The Iça is a body of water coming from the east of the Pasto Mountains

to the northeast of Quito, through the finest forests of wild

cacao-trees. Navigable for a distance of a hundred and forty leagues for

steamers of not greater draught than six feet, it may one day become one

of the chief waterways in the west of America.

The bad weather was at last met with. It did not show itself in

continual rains, but in frequent storms. These could not hinder the

progress of the raft, which offered little resistance to the wind. Its

great length rendered it almost insensible to the swell of the Amazon,

but during the torrential showers th