บทที่ บทที่ 38 · A Rapid Passage.—Prudent Resolves.—Caravans in Sight.—Incessant
. A Rapid Passage.—Prudent Resolves.—Caravans in Sight.—Incessant
Rains.—Goa.—The Niger.—Golberry, Geoffroy, and Gray.—Mungo
Park.—Laing.—René Caillié.—Clapperton.—John and Richard Lander.
The 17th of May passed tranquilly, without any remarkable incident; the
desert gained upon them once more; a moderate wind bore the _Victoria_
toward the southwest, and she never swerved to the right or to the
left, but her shadow traced a perfectly straight line on the sand.
Before starting, the doctor had prudently renewed his stock of water,
having feared that he should not be able to touch ground in these
regions, infested as they are by the Aouelim-Minian Touaregs. The
plateau, at an elevation of eighteen hundred feet above the level of
the sea, sloped down toward the south. Our travellers, having crossed
the Aghades route at Murzouk—a route often pressed by the feet of
camels—arrived that evening, in the sixteenth degree of north latitude,
and four degrees fifty-five minutes east longitude, after having passed
over one hundred and eighty miles of a long and monotonous day’s
journey.
During the day Joe dressed the last pieces of game, which had been only
hastily prepared, and he served up for supper a mess of snipe, that
were greatly relished. The wind continuing good, the doctor resolved to
keep on during the night, the moon, still nearly at the full,
illumining it with her radiance. The _Victoria_ ascended to a height of
five hundred feet, and, during her nocturnal trip of about sixty miles,
the gentle slumbers of an infant would not have been disturbed by her
motion.
On Sunday morning, the direction of the wind again changed, and it bore
to the northwestward. A few crows were seen sweeping through the air,
and, off on the horizon, a flock of vultures which, fortunately,
however, kept at a distance.
The sight of these birds led Joe to compliment his master on the idea
of having two balloons.
“Where would we be,” said he, “with only one balloon? The second
balloon is like the life-boat to a ship; in case of wreck we could
always take to it and escape.”
“You are right, friend Joe,” said the doctor, “only that my life-boat
gives me some uneasiness. It is not so good as the main craft.”
“What do you mean by that, doctor?” asked Kennedy.
“I mean to say that the new _Victoria_ is not so good as the old one.
Whether it be that the stuff it is made of is too much worn, or that
the heat of the spiral has melted the gutta-percha, I can observe a
certain loss of gas. It don’t amount to much thus far, but still it is
noticeable. We have a tendency to sink, and, in order to keep our
elevation, I am compelled to give greater dilation to the hydrogen.”
“The deuce!” exclaimed Kennedy with concern; “I see no remedy for
that.”
“There is none, Dick, and that is why we must hasten our progress, and
even avoid night halts.”
“Are we still far from the coast?” asked Joe.
“Which coast, my boy? How are we to know whither chance will carry us?
All that I can say is, that Timbuctoo is still about four hundred miles
to the westward.
“And how long will it take us to get there?”
“Should the wind not carry us too far out of the way, I hope to reach
that city by Tuesday evening.”
“Then,” remarked Joe, pointing to a long file of animals and men
winding across the open desert, “we shall arrive there sooner than that
caravan.”
Ferguson and Kennedy leaned over and saw an immense cavalcade. There
were at least one hundred and fifty camels of the kind that, for twelve
_mutkals_ of gold, or about twenty-five dollars, go from Timbuctoo to
Tafilet with a load of five hundred pounds upon their backs. Each
animal had dangling to its tail a bag to receive its excrement, the
only fuel on which the caravans can depend when crossing the desert.
These Touareg camels are of the very best race. They can go from three
to seven days without drinking, and for two without eating. Their speed
surpasses that of the horse, and they obey with intelligence the voice
of the _khabir_, or guide of the caravan. They are known in the country
under the name of _mehari_.
Such were the details given by the doctor while his companions
continued to gaze upon that multitude of men, women, and children,
advancing on foot and with difficulty over a waste of sand half in
motion, and scarcely kept in its place by scanty nettles, withered
grass, and stunted bushes that grew upon it. The wind obliterated the
marks of their feet almost instantly.
Joe inquired how the Arabs managed to guide themselves across the
desert, and come to the few wells scattered far between throughout this
vast solitude.
“The Arabs,” replied Dr. Ferguson, “are endowed by nature with a
wonderful instinct in finding their way. Where a European would be at a
loss, they never hesitate for a moment. An insignificant fragment of
rock, a pebble, a tuft of grass, a different shade of color in the
sand, suffice to guide them with accuracy. During the night they go by
the polar star. They never travel more than two miles per hour, and
always rest during the noonday heat. You may judge from that how long
it takes them to cross Sahara, a desert more than nine hundred miles in
breadth.”
But the _Victoria_ had already disappeared from the astonished gaze of
the Arabs, who must have envied her rapidity. That evening she passed
two degrees twenty minutes east longitude, and during the night left
another degree behind her.
On Monday the weather changed completely. Rain began to fall with
extreme violence, and not only had the balloon to resist the power of
this deluge, but also the increase of weight which it caused by wetting
the whole machine, car and all. This continuous shower accounted for
the swamps and marshes that formed the sole surface of the country.
Vegetation reappeared, however, along with the mimosas, the baobabs,
and the tamarind-trees.
Such was the Sonray country, with its villages topped with roofs turned
over like Armenian caps. There were few mountains, and only such hills
as were enough to form the ravines and pools where the _pintadoes_ and
snipes went sailing and diving through. Here and there, an impetuous
torrent cut the roads, and had to be crossed by the natives on long
vines stretched from tree to tree. The forests gave place to jungles,
which alligators, hippopotami, and the rhinoceros, made their haunts.
“It will not be long before we see the Niger,” said the doctor. “The
face of the country always changes in the vicinity of large rivers.
These moving highways, as they are sometimes correctly called, have
first brought vegetation with them, as they will at last bring
civilization. Thus, in its course of twenty-five hundred miles, the
Niger has scattered along its banks the most important cities of
Africa.”
“By-the-way,” put in Joe, “that reminds me of what was said by an
admirer of the goodness of Providence, who praised the foresight with
which it had generally caused rivers to flow close to large cities!”
At noon the _Victoria_ was passing over a petty town, a mere assemblage
of miserable huts, which once was Goa, a great capital.
“It was there,” said the doctor, “that Barth crossed the Niger, on his
return from Timbuctoo. This is the river so famous in antiquity, the
rival of the Nile, to which pagan superstition ascribed a celestial
origin. Like the Nile, it has engaged the attention of geographers in
all ages; and like it, also, its exploration has cost the lives of many
victims; yes, even more of them than perished on account of the other.”
The Niger flowed broadly between its banks, and its waters rolled
southward with some violence of current; but our travellers, borne
swiftly by as they were, could scarcely catch a glimpse of its curious
outline.
“I wanted to talk to you about this river,” said Dr. Ferguson, “and it
is already far from us. Under the names of Dhiouleba, Mayo, Egghirreou,
Quorra, and other titles besides, it traverses an immense extent of
country, and almost competes in length with the Nile. These
appellations signify simply ‘the River,’ according to the dialects of
the countries through which it passes.”
“Did Dr. Barth follow this route?” asked Kennedy.
“No, Dick: in quitting Lake Tchad, he passed through the different
towns of Bornou, and intersected the Niger at Say, four degrees below
Goa; then he penetrated to the bosom of those unexplored countries
which the Niger embraces in its elbow; and, after eight months of fresh
fatigues, he arrived at Timbuctoo; all of which we may do in about
three days with as swift a wind as this.”
“Have the sources of the Niger been discovered?” asked Joe.
“Long since,” replied the doctor. “The exploration of the Niger and its
tributaries was the object of several expeditions, the principal of
which I shall mention: Between 1749 and 1758, Adamson made a
reconnoissance of the river, and visited Gorea; from 1785 to 1788,
Golberry and Geoffroy travelled across the deserts of Senegambia, and
ascended as far as the country of the Moors, who assassinated Saugnier,
Brisson, Adam, Riley, Cochelet, and so many other unfortunate men. Then
came the illustrious Mungo Park, the friend of Sir Walter Scott, and,
like him, a Scotchman by birth. Sent out in 1795 by the African Society
of London, he got as far as Bambarra, saw the Niger, travelled five
hundred miles with a slave-merchant, reconnoitred the Gambia River, and
returned to England in 1797. He again set out, on the 30th of January,
1805, with his brother-in-law Anderson, Scott, the designer, and a gang
of workmen; he reached Gorea, there added a detachment of thirty-five
soldiers to his party, and saw the Niger again on the 19th of August.
But, by that time, in consequence of fatigue, privations, ill-usage,
the inclemencies of the weather, and the unhealthiness of the country,
only eleven persons remained alive of the forty Europeans in the party.
On the 16th of November, the last letters from Mungo Park reached his
wife; and, a year later a trader from that country gave information
that, having got as far as Boussa, on the Niger, on the 23d of
December, the unfortunate traveller’s boat was upset by the cataracts
in that part of the river, and he was murdered by the natives.”
“And his dreadful fate did not check the efforts of others to explore
that river?”
“On the contrary, Dick. Since then, there were two objects in view:
namely, to recover the lost man’s papers, as well as to pursue the
exploration. In 1816, an expedition was organized, in which Major Grey
took part. It arrived in Senegal, penetrated to the Fonta-Jallon,
visited the Foullah and Mandingo populations, and returned to England
without further results. In 1822, Major Laing explored all the western
part of Africa near to the British possessions; and he it was who got
so far as the sources of the Niger; and, according to his documents,
the spring in which that immense river takes its rise is not two feet
broad.
“Easy to jump over,” said Joe.
“How’s that? Easy you think, eh?” retorted the doctor. “If we are to
believe tradition, whoever attempts to pass that spring, by leaping
over it, is immediately swallowed up; and whoever tries to draw water
from it, feels himself repulsed by an invisible hand.”
“I suppose a man has a right not to believe a word of that!” persisted
Joe.
“Oh, by all means!—Five years later, it was Major Laing’s destiny to
force his way across the desert of Sahara, penetrate to Timbuctoo, and
perish a few miles above it, by strangling, at the hands of the
Ouelad-shiman, who wanted to compel him to turn Mussulman.”
“Still another victim!” said the sportsman.
“It was then that a brave young man, with his own feeble resources,
undertook and accomplished the most astonishing of modern journeys—I
mean the Frenchman René Caillié, who, after sundry attempts in 1819 and
1824, set out again on the 19th of April, 1827, from Rio Nunez. On the
3d of August he arrived at Timé, so thoroughly exhausted and ill that
he could not resume his journey until six months later, in January,
1828. He then joined a caravan, and, protected by his Oriental dress,
reached the Niger on the 10th of March, penetrated to the city of
Jenné, embarked on the river, and descended it, as far as Timbuctoo,
where he arrived on the 30th of April. In 1760, another Frenchman,
Imbert by name, and, in 1810, an Englishman, Robert Adams, had seen
this curious place; but René Caillié was to be the first European who
could bring back any authentic data concerning it. On the 4th of May he
quitted this ‘Queen of the desert;’ on the 9th, he surveyed the very
spot where Major Laing had been murdered; on the 19th, he arrived at
El-Arouan, and left that commercial town to brave a thousand dangers in
crossing the vast solitudes comprised between the Soudan and the
northern regions of Africa. At length he entered Tangiers, and on the
28th of September sailed for Toulon. In nineteen months,
notwithstanding one hundred and eighty days’ sickness, he had traversed
Africa from west to north. Ah! had Caillié been born in England, he
would have been honored as the most intrepid traveller of modern times,
as was the case with Mungo Park. But in France he was not appreciated
according to his worth.”
“He was a sturdy fellow!” said Kennedy, “but what became of him?”
“He died at the age of thirty-nine, from the consequences of his long
fatigues. They thought they had done enough in decreeing him the prize
of the Geographical Society in 1828; the highest honors would have been
paid to him in England.
“While he was accomplishing this remarkable journey, an Englishman had
conceived a similar enterprise and was trying to push it through with
equal courage, if not with equal good fortune. This was Captain
Clapperton, the companion of Denham. In 1829 he reentered Africa by the
western coast of the Gulf of Benin; he then followed in the track of
Mungo Park and of Laing, recovered at Boussa the documents relative to
the death of the former, and arrived on the 20th of August at Sackatoo,
where he was seized and held as a prisoner, until he expired in the
arms of his faithful attendant Richard Lander.”
“And what became of this Lander?” asked Joe, deeply interested.
“He succeeded in regaining the coast and returned to London, bringing
with him the captain’s papers, and an exact narrative of his own
journey. He then offered his services to the government to complete the
reconnoissance of the Niger. He took with him his brother John, the
second child of a poor couple in Cornwall, and, together, these men,
between 1829 and 1831, redescended the river from Boussa to its mouth,
describing it village by village, mile by mile.”
“So both the brothers escaped the common fate?” queried Kennedy.
“Yes, on this expedition, at least; but in 1833 Richard undertook a
third trip to the Niger, and perished by a bullet, near the mouth of
the river. You see, then, my friends, that the country over which we
are now passing has witnessed some noble instances of self-sacrifice
which, unfortunately, have only too often had death for their reward.”